Introduction

Below is a magazine article that I wrote a few years ago, and was published in the May, 2001 edition of Monitoring Times Magazine.  However, most of the information is still relevant today, and should be useful in choosing and operating a generator in an emergency situation. 

Since I wrote this article in 2001, I've changed my emergency power setup.  I now use two EU2000i generators that can be hooked in parallel to produce 4,000 watts intermittent and 3,600 watts of continuous power.  This setup allows me to run a portable air conditioner with both units online, or I can cut back to just fans, lights and the refrigerator with just one.  In addition to being much quieter and fuel efficient, have two generators offers redundancy should one fail.  It is a pricey option, but one that made sense for me, since I already owned one of the EU2000i generators.  It has turned out to be a configuration that works well for my needs.  At least until I can afford to put in a fully redundant, natural gas powered 15KW unit with an automatic transfer switch! 

Generating Power - Monitoring Times Magazine, May, 2001

It’s a normal morning around our home as the family prepares for work and school. The house is warm and cozy, my wife is running the hair dryer, the TV is on in the background, and all the lights burn brightly. So what’s so unusual about this situation? Because the rest of the neighbors are sitting in their cold, dark homes due to a power outage!

In the year and a half that I’ve owned a generator, we’ve survived furious Texas storms and close calls from hurricanes, yet not once did we lose electrical service at our home. But it only took one rotten tree branch across a local distribution line to knock out the power on one of the coldest days of the year!

In the United States, electrical service is so reliable that we tend to take it for granted. Rarely do we ever flip the wall switch and the lights fail to come on. But when the power does go out, it can wreak all sorts of havoc. Everything from minor conveniences, such as hair dryers, to life-sustaining necessities, such as the coffee maker, can be rendered inoperative!

So what can a person do to minimize the impact of an electrical disruption? Well, obviously generators are one solution that can provide power to a household or small business when the lights go out. Many are reluctant to consider a generator because of the perception that they are expensive or complicated to own and operate. But as you will see, backup power can be as simple and economical or as complicated and expensive as you make it.

In order to determine the size of generator for your needs, you must first determine the amount of power (measured in watts) that you will require. A "watt" is a basic measure of power derived by multiplying voltage times amperage. To determine the load that will be placed on your generator, you must add up the combined wattage of all devices you intend to run simultaneously. All electrical devices in your home should have either the wattage or amperage stated somewhere on a tag affixed to the device. If the current consumption is stated in amps, it can be converted to watts by multiplying amps by 120 (where 120 is the average voltage for homes in the United States.) For example, an electrical device that draws 1.5 amps, multiply 1.5 amps times 120 volts to determine a load of 180 watts.

Some items are easy to determine, such as a 100-watt light bulb, which obviously, draws 100 watts. However, anything using an electric motor, such as a refrigerator, is a bit more complicated. The power required to start the motor can be as much as three times the current it takes to run the motor. So when calculating the load for motors, or devices which use motors, you must use the "starting" wattage, not the "running" wattage. Special attention should be given these calculations for those who plan to use a generator to run a well pump, since it also may affect your ability to get water into the home.

As you choose a generator, there are a couple of important details regarding specifications. First, make sure that you select a generator based on its "rated" capacity as opposed to its "maximum" capacity. As a rule of thumb, rated capacity is approximately 90% of the maximum capacity. For example, a generator advertised as 1,000 watts may only have a rated capacity for 900 watts, and only be able to sustain the 1,000-watt load for a short period–perhaps a few minutes. Another detail to consider is the fuel usage. Very often, the fuel consumption is based on a 50% load. In actual service where the load is higher, your true run time may be as little as half as the advertised run time.

For the purposes of this article, I will divide the generators into three broad categories:
500 – 1000 watts, 3000 – 6000 watts and 10,000 – 15,000 watts.

Generators in the 500 – 1000 watt category are limited to relatively light-duty tasks, such as powering a few ham radios or scanners, charging batteries, and supplying power for emergency lighting. But keep in mind that they cannot power any significant electrical devices, like a portable electric heater or perhaps even a regular coffee maker! On a positive note, generators in this category are typically more affordable and portable, and are easier to move around the home or transport. This may be a consideration if you wish to take your generator with you when camping, or perhaps to power the rigs on your next ham radio field day outing.

The 3000 – 6000 watt units are capable of handling most of the necessities and many of the luxuries of an average household. This may include the blower to the furnace (but not a central electric heater,) many home appliances, normal household lighting, as well as the full gamut of communications gear. On the other hand, they may weigh over two hundred pounds and require wheels to allow one person to move them about.

Top of the line models in the 10,000 – 15,000 range provide the power to run all electrical devices and appliances, including electric heat and central air systems in a typical home. With a generator of this size, the occupants of the home may go about their business as if the external power had never been interrupted. Generators in this class are usually permanently mounted and wired directly into the home’s electrical system.

If you don’t have your generator wired into your home electrical system, then you will need one or more heavy extension cords. Be sure to calculate the total load that will be carried by the cord, then choose one which will safely handle the load. It’s also a good idea to get a cord rated for about 30% more than required to give you some margin of safety.

As with your home electrical system, your generator should be properly grounded for safety. The size of the ground rod and wire will vary according to the size of the generator and your unique wiring configuration. You should check with an electrician for further information on grounding requirements for your particular situation.

For those who want the ultimate in safety and convenience, having the generator wired into the home electrical system is perhaps the best option. Though this is not a simple or cheap undertaking, the benefits usually make it well worth the effort and expense.

In my case, it made chose to hook the generator into the home’s electrical system with the EmerGen manual transfer switch from Connecticut Electric. This solution allows me to safely route electricity to six of the most critical circuits in my home. The transfer switch completely isolates the incoming line voltage from the generator, and vice-versa. The two built-in meters allows me to balance the load and monitor the total wattage to ensure that I don’t overload the generator.

If you do choose to connect your generator into your home electrical system, I strongly recommend that you have this done by a licensed electrician. The potential for electrocution, fire or damage to your equipment is just too great to treat this as a do-it-yourself project.

Regardless of whether you use extension cords or hardwire the generator into your home, you should start the generator and allow it to warm up for a few minutes before applying a load. Then, the devices should be added progressively if possible. One of the advantages of the EmerGen switch is that each circuit can be switched on or off individual, allowing you to increase the load on the generator one circuit at a time.

Like all emergency equipment, the generator should be carefully maintained and checked periodically. I start my generator up on a weekly basis, apply an electrical load, and let it run for about fifteen minutes. All maintenance, including oil changes, should be done according to manufacturer’s specifications. And since Murphy’s Law never takes a holiday, you should have extra oil, fuel filters and spark plugs on hand.

One option that you should strongly consider for your generator is an electric starter. Depending on the generator, this can add $200 or more to the cost of the unit. However, a strained back in the middle of a blizzard can render all of your expense and planning useless. Due to the large engine required, this is especially true for generators of 5,000 watts and up. If you choose not to purchase a generator with an electric starter, then you may wish to consider a generator with a Honda engine that employs Automatic Compress Release (ACR). My generator, a Master model MGH5000, is equipped with a large Honda nine-horsepower engine with ACR. Yet it starts on the first pull every time with a short, easy tug of the rope.

Safety Tips
Safe storage of gasoline for your generator should be one of your primary concerns. Since gasoline vapors can escape the storage can and linger until ignited, I strongly suggest that only ULÒ approved safety cans be used. To further reduce the chance of fire or explosion, gasoline should be stored in a separate storage shed as far away from the home as possible. Never try to add fuel to a running or hot generator. It’s also a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the proximity of the generator (though not directly over it, since if a fire erupted, you’d be unable to access the extinguisher!)

When storing gasoline, either in separate cans or in the generator’s tank, the fuel can begin to degrade in as little as two months. Bad gas can leave a gummy residue in the carburetor, preventing the generator from starting, and may require overhaul of the fuel system. To prevent this problem, I use an additive called STA-BILÒ in both my generator’s gas tank and my gas storage cans. The manufacturer claims that this product extends the storage life of your fuel for as long as 15 months. I’ve used it continuously in my generator since it was new, and I’ve never had a problem with the fuel going bad. However, just to be on the safe side, I swap out the gas every six months and put the old gas in my car. To keep track of the age of the fuel, I write the date on a floppy diskette label and affix it to the side of the generator and on each gas can.

Since internal combustion engines emit carbon monoxide--a deadly colorless, odorless gas, you should NEVER run your generator in enclosed area where people or animals are present! Also, you should be certain that the exhaust is not being allowed to enter the dwelling through an open window or vent inlet. Carbon monoxide is deadly, and should be treated as a serious threat!

Conclusion
Whether you choose to go with the 1,000 watt "minimalist" approach, or a large, fully redundant system, a generator can make life a lot more tolerable in the aftermath of a hurricane, blizzard or other natural disaster. For most of us, this is a fairly sizeable investment, so it would be wise to take time to do your research first. Then when the lights flicker and the house goes dark, well, at least you can make a cup of coffee and listen to your scanner!

Useful generator selection guide from Mayberry’s Sales & Service

STA-BIL Gasoline Stabilizer

Safety Gas Storage Cans

Transfer Switches

Master Generators

Honda Generators